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Ultimate Doll Costuming: The Trousseau-page 3

A Replicated Trousseau
for a 19th Century Reproduction Doll

 


Anyone who owns an antique or reproduction doll will at some time long for such a trousseau. Cindy Hernandez, a modern day couturiere, is no exception. She chose her French C Series Steiner painted by artisan Dee Benisek as the lucky doll. The 14-inch body makes the doll a nice mid-size model for the growing array of clothes. The doll, named Amelia after Cindy's paternal grandmother, is the proud owner of each piece of the 1885-87 trousseau, which has been researched and developed for authenticity and sewing techniques of the time period.

The Victorian era has always been of interest to Cindy, so when she began her business of doll costuming, the antique and quality reproduction antique dolls were a natural. She attended Ray Vogue Fashion Design School in Chicago, thus insuring authentic period designs and fabrics in her costuming and patterns, and years of experience sewing for designers at a clothing manufacturer have produced exquisite workmanship. Cindy's creative flair is seen in each trousseau piece. That flair, combined with her knowledge of fashion history and second-to-none workmanship have produced several awards for her costumes over the years.

The party confection, which is part of the trousseau, won a blue ribbon and Best of Category in the Doll Costumer's Guild Chicago-area competition. The same dress, with hat, underclothes, shoes and socks, went on to win Expert Class First Place in the 1997 national competition of the Doll Costumer's Guild of America.

With this background, let's take a look at the wonderful trousseau Cindy is putting together for Amelia.

Since underlinens form the foundation of an ensemble, Cindy designed two sets--one for everyday wear and one for special occasions. With the addition of three different styles of dress and night wear, the basic necessities in a trousseau are covered.

 
Underlinens
 

Underlinen is a broad term used for any item of clothing worn beneath the external garments, by day or by night. The four-piece set of special occasion underlinens includes chemise and drawers (many a doll was purchased with just this type of chemise and drawers as its basic clothing), petticoat and stays. Both chemise and drawers are embellished with red ribbon, overlaid with lace. The chemise neckline follows the party dress neckline and has a panel of front vertical pleats and a back placket with button and loop closure. The waistband of the split drawers closes with a button and hand-worked buttonhole.

The petticoat has a front waistband and back drawstring closure. It is hemmed with wide lace edging and a flounce is mounted over the lace hem.

A picture of an antique doll inspired the chemise and drawers design. The stays and petticoat evolved from Cindy's integration of ideas based on several photographs of doll clothing of the period.

 
  A closeup of Amelia's chemise. Notice the ribbon embellishment with lace overlay.  
  A pair of stays (another term for corset) has non-bone support bands and four sets of lacing grommets.  
~•••~

•View the antique that inspired the chemise and drawers.
•View high resolution photos of this ensemble.

Page 1 ......Trousseau of the 19th Century Page 6......Pompadour Dress and Guimpe
Page 2 ......An Antique Example Page 7 ......Everyday Underlinens
Page 4 ......Party Confection Page 8 ......Seaside Frock and Sampler
Page 5 ......Shell Work Handkerchief and Glove Box Page 9 ......Nightclothes with Crazy Quilt
and Pillow

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