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The recent explosion of interest in needlework surely invites today's doll costumer to follow the lead of their Victorian predecessors and add some fancy handwork to a doll dress or slip in a favorite old-time stitch or two. The basic stitches are rather simple. Just a bit of time will add flair to an otherwise plain garment and you'll be pleased with the results of your efforts. In the Victorian era, ethnic styles seemed to display more handwork than most other doll clothes, with German-style clothes running second. Couture French clothes depended more on lace, trims and complicated sewing techniques than on handwork stitches for their uniqueness. Resource books, auction catalogs and actual vintage doll clothes generally indicate the most common handwork stitches used from about 1865 to 1925 were the chain stitch, feather stitch, herringbone stitch, fagotting or hem stitch, running stitch, blanket or buttonhole stitch, and cross stitch. To keep your costume authentic, work stitches only on 100 percent cotton, linen, wool, or silk (thin silk may need a backing). Most of the time your stitching will look best on a very plain background, However, note how the embroidery on the belt in the photo below blends with the print of the fabric. Certain colors are more appropriate than others. White and black backgrounds are fine for any fashion era, but they are by no means the only colors you can use. Usually safe are any of the primary colors in the softer tones. Be sure to steer clear of modern fluorescents! Use colors for your stitches that blend or contrast well with the fabric you choose. A color wheel will give you help if you are unsure of your own judgment. Happy stitching! |
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Stem and Lazy Daisy Stitches Simple stem
and lazy daisy stitches used with fabric flowers dress up an otherwise
uninteresting polka dot vintage cotton sash. |
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Sash by Cindy Hernandez, The Dollies' Dressmaker |
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Feather Stitch Left
Photo: |
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Blanket or Buttonhole Stitch The shoes are
edged with the blanket or buttonhole stitch with #12 DMC Perle Coton
in a blending color. |
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Fagotting
and Cross Stitch A vintage dress of lightweight cotton pique with yoke of bias strips (alternated flat and puffed) attached together with fagotting. On the skirt of the dress are elephants done in cross stitch. The dress was picked up at an estate sale. |
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| A similar garment--a
fagotted apron--adapted from an 1880's antique pattern by Hazel Ulseth
was presented with directions in the Feb-Mar 1994 issue of the Doll
Costumer's Guild Newsletter. To obtain a copy contact: Doll Costumer's Guild 5042 Wilshire Blvd., PMB 573, Los Angeles, CA 90036 |
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| Stitch Samples | ||||
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•DMC
Perle Coton...Size 5, 8, or 12 |
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All of the
above are available at most yarn or handiwork stores. |
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| STITCH | USES | MATERIALS |
| Simple Chain Stitch | One
of the most ancient stitches, worked straight or in a design, usually used as an outline. Outline edge of a wool jacket or coat collar. |
Silk
or cotton floss or thin wool yarn. When used on lightweight fabric such as batiste, choose a fine thread (size 50). |
| Herringbone Stitch | Along a hem line, trim a bias neck binding. | Silk or cotton floss |
| Feather Stitch | Most
often used is the double feather stitch. On a corset/stole, around cape edge, flannel petticoat, neck and arm edges, bands on drawers. |
Silk or cotton floss |
| Blanket or Buttonhole Stitch | Sleeveless jacket edges and armholes, flannel petticoat, edge a shoe. | Silk or cotton floss |
| Running Stitch | Edge a collarŠlooks nicer on fabric with more substance, such as wool. | Silk or cotton floss or thin wool yarn |
| Stem and Lazy Daisy Stitches | Can be applied as a belt or collar decoration. | Silk or cotton floss |
| Fagotting Stitch | A
kind of hemstitch with wide spaces. Makes a nice yoke. |
Cotton thread |
| Cross Stitch | A
very familiar stitch. See photo above for simple decoration on dress. On collar or cuffs |
Silk or cotton floss |
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There are many excellent instructional books and magazines that show and explain the procedures for making the individual stitches discussed here. Bibliography: For modernized
uses of some of the old stitches: For studying
antique and antique reproduction doll costumes: For help with
Victorian sewing and stitching: |
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View high resolution photos of some of the examples shown above. |