Dressing German Doesn’t Require Dressing Plain

Kestner made dolls from 1805-1925. This presentation is a reproduction of a Kestner 14 (Seeley mold “Miranda”) by Jack Merkel for costumer, Cindy Hernandez. The doll was given a dark wig in order to look similar to her owner and was named “Jacqueline” to honor her maker.

by Donna Birkey

Often we categorize doll costuming as French detailed and German plain. To a great degree this is true, but if we doom plain, simple German costuming to dull, we short change our creativity and our dolls. The costume on a German reproduction Kestner belonging to Cindy Hernandez is anything but dull and is as authentic as any basic white batiste.

The eye of Cindy, who does business as The Dollies’ Dressmaker, is always on the lookout for distinctive vintage costumes that spark her creativity for replication. In this blue ribbon winner Cindy drew from two photos–one for the outer costume and one for the chemise–to create a sweet and innocent look for her Kestner. Each component of the costume is authentic to 1890-1910 and she has used all vintage fabrics and trims.

The apron dress was original to an A & M 390 from about 1910, but such styles were very common in the 1890s as well. The chemise was original to a Kestner 171, known to be from 1910 or later since they were offered for sale in the January 1910 issue of Playthings. Keep in mind that styles overlapped as much as five years so it is difficult to pinpoint a costume with complete accuracy.

To help develop the skill for constructing your own extra-special costumes, study the following detailed description of how each piece was constructed.
Chemise, Drawers and Petticoat
Both chemise and drawers are made of a gauzy muslin-type cotton. Secured to the chemise, along with a red velvet ribbon decoration, is a replica of the Kestner tag shown on the original photo.

Full View of Doll in Chemise and Drawers

Close-up of Doll

Chemise
Vintage ivory and red trim, similar to the antique, was purchased from a collector of laces and trims and sewn to the chemise.

Chemise Detail ~ Front

Chemise Trim Placement

Chemise Detail ~ Back

Drawers
Cindy added matching drawstring drawers with special scalloped tucks.

Drawers Detail

Drawer Scalloped Tucks Drawer Tucks Method for scalloped tucks: After tucks are stitched mark every 3/8 inch along stitching line. 1) Run needle and thread through inside of tuck, coming out at first mark. 2) Put the needle under the tuck and come out at the same mark. Do this a second time. 3) Run needle and thread through the tuck to the next mark. Repeat these three steps for the total length of the tuck.

Petticoat
Both chemise and drawers are made of a gauzy muslin-type cotton. Secured to the chemise, along with a red velvet ribbon decoration, is a replica of the Kestner tag shown on the original photo.
A white embroidered cotton eyelet petticoat with drawstring waist completes the underwear set.

Full View of Doll in Petticoat

Petticoat Detail

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